Kangaroo Fillet with Pommes Anna, Wild Mushrooms, and Blackberry Sauce

Introduction

Today we are trying something new: kangaroo. Credit to Bunnpris Fuglset in Molde for bringing in slightly more exotic ingredients. This week they had kangaroo and zebra, and the zebra recipe is coming later.

I had never eaten kangaroo before, but I assumed it would behave a bit like game meat that wants something sweet on the plate and should not be cooked for too long. The sides became a mix of self-picked and store-bought mushrooms, potatoes done Pommes Anna style with layers of butter and seasoning, and a sauce of game stock, blackberries, juniper, and shallot. I also pickled a little red onion and fried some shallots for garnish on top.

With hindsight, 24 hours was too short a time to thaw the meat in the fridge, even though I left it at room temperature for 2 hours before cooking. This meat tolerates very little heat treatment, so you want it as close to room temperature as possible before it hits the pan.

Step-by-step

Ingredients (serves 4)

Meat

• 600 g kangaroo fillet (1.3 lb)
• 10 g salt
• 0.5 tsp black pepper
• 1 tbsp neutral oil
• 20 g butter (1.5 tbsp)
• 2 sprigs thyme
• 1 sprig rosemary

Crispy fried shallots

• 3 shallots, thinly sliced
• 1 tbsp flour
• 150 ml neutral oil (2/3 cup)
• 1 pinch salt

Pommes Anna

• 1 kg waxy potatoes (2.2 lb), peeled
• 90 g butter (6 tbsp), melted
• 1 sprig rosemary, finely chopped
• Salt and black pepper

Mushrooms

• 250 g chanterelles (9 oz), cleaned
• 250 g mixed wild mushrooms or other mushrooms (9 oz), roughly torn
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• 15 g butter (1 tbsp)
• 1 tsp neutral oil
• Salt and black pepper

Blackberry sauce

• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 200 ml red wine (3/4 cup + 1 tbsp)
• 100 ml raspberry balsamic (scant 1/2 cup)
• 400 ml game stock (1 2/3 cups)
• 125 g blackberries (4.5 oz)
• 6 juniper berries, lightly crushed
• 15 g cold butter (1 tbsp)
• Black pepper

Method

1. Salt the kangaroo fillet 30 to 45 minutes before cooking. Leave it uncovered on a rack or plate in the fridge if possible so the surface dries a little.
2. Toss the shallots for the crispy topping with the flour. Heat the oil in a small saucepan or pan over medium heat and fry the shallots in a few small batches until golden and crisp. Drain on paper and season lightly with salt. They darken a little after they come out, so pull them before they turn deep brown.
3. Heat the oven to 200 °C / 390 °F. Slice the potatoes thinly, ideally on a mandoline. Butter a small baking dish well, layer the potatoes tightly, and brush or drizzle butter between the layers. Season as you go with rosemary, salt, and pepper.
4. Press the potatoes down lightly, cover the dish with baking paper and foil or a lid, and bake for 35 minutes. Remove the cover and bake for another 20 to 30 minutes until the potatoes are tender and the top is golden. Let them rest for 10 minutes before cutting.
5. Start the sauce while the potatoes bake. Saute the shallot and garlic in a little butter or oil over medium heat until soft and lightly golden, 5 to 6 minutes.
6. Add the red wine and raspberry balsamic, and reduce to about one third. Add the game stock, blackberries, and crushed juniper berries, and simmer until the sauce has reduced by about half. Press the berries gently into the sauce as they soften.
7. Strain the sauce if you want it fully smooth, or leave a little texture in it. Whisk in the cold butter just before serving and balance with black pepper.
8. Cook the chanterelles and the rest of the mushrooms in a dry pan first until they release their moisture. Add butter, oil, and the chopped shallot, and continue cooking for 4 to 5 minutes until the mushrooms are golden and the shallot is soft. Season with salt and pepper.
9. Take the meat out of the fridge 10 minutes before cooking. Pat dry, season with pepper, and heat a heavy pan until very hot. Add oil and lay in the fillets.
10. Sear the kangaroo fillet for 1.5 to 2 minutes on the first side and 1 to 2 minutes on the second side, depending on thickness. Add the butter, thyme, and rosemary near the end and baste quickly. Aim for 50 to 52 °C / 122 to 126 °F before resting for a juicy result.
11. Rest the meat for 6 to 8 minutes. Slice across the grain.
12. Plate with Pommes Anna first, then mushrooms and sliced kangaroo. Spoon over the blackberry sauce and finish with the crispy fried shallots just before serving.

Serving note

• Self-picked chanterelles do a lot of the flavor work here, but the mix of mushrooms is what rounds the plate out. Let the chanterelles lead and use the rest in a supporting role.
• The raspberry balsamic gives the kind of acidity I often reach for in a game sauce, but with a fresher edge and less sweetness than a more old-fashioned jelly-based version.
• The crispy fried shallots on top are a small move, but they give the soft sauce and buttery potatoes a clean final contrast.
• Wine for this: Diablo Volcanic Cab at NOK 449.90 for 300 cl. It is a gamer’s wine in the best sense: dark berries, pepper, a little smoke, and soft tannins make it easy to enjoy, but it still has enough force to handle the game stock, juniper, and the hard sear on the meat. Wine Folly points to Cabernet Sauvignon as a strong match for umami-heavy dishes and bold meat flavors, which fits well here because the mushrooms, sauce, and blackberry sweetness all need a wine that will not disappear.