Introduction
Mid-May is when asparagus is everywhere, cheap, and actually good. Cook a salmon fillet skin-side down until it crackles, whip up a hand-blender béarnaise in four minutes, and dinner is done. This béarnaise skips the double boiler and doesn’t break unless you really go out of your way to break it.
Ingredients
- 600 g salmon fillet, skin on, cut into 3 portions of approx. 200 g each (1.3 lb / 7 oz each)
- 400 g green asparagus (14 oz), woody ends snapped off
- 500 g new potatoes (1.1 lb), scrubbed
- 2 egg yolks
- 150 g unsalted butter (5 oz), melted and warm
- Finely grated zest of ½ lemon + 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 1 small bunch fresh tarragon, leaves only (or 1 tsp dried tarragon)
- 2 tbsp white wine vinegar
- 2 tbsp water
- 1 tbsp neutral oil
- 8 g salt (1.5 tsp)
- 2 g white pepper (0.5 tsp)
Method
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Boil the potatoes: Place new potatoes in cold, well-salted water. Bring to a boil and cook for 15–18 minutes until tender. Drain and keep warm.
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Make the béarnaise base: Combine the white wine vinegar, water, and half the tarragon in a small saucepan. Simmer until about 1 tbsp of liquid remains, roughly 3 minutes. Strain and let cool slightly. (If using dried tarragon, skip this step and stir it directly into the finished sauce.)
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Melt the butter: Melt the butter in a saucepan until fully liquid and warm, around 65 °C (150 °F). It shouldn’t foam or brown.
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Blend the béarnaise: Put the egg yolks and cooled vinegar reduction in a tall, narrow container. Blend with a hand blender and slowly pour the warm butter in a thin stream down the side while blending. The sauce will thicken quickly. Stir in the lemon zest, lemon juice, and tarragon (fresh, or dried if you skipped step 2). Season with salt and white pepper. Set aside and keep warm.
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Season the salmon: Pat the fillets thoroughly dry with paper towels. Rub with a little oil, salt, and pepper on both sides.
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Cook the salmon: Heat a pan or grill grate until hot. Place the salmon skin-side down. Leave it undisturbed for 3–4 minutes until the skin is crispy and the fish is cooked about halfway up the sides. Flip and cook 1–2 minutes more. The centre should still be slightly translucent. Pull it at around 52–54 °C (125–129 °F).
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Grill the asparagus: Brush the asparagus with a little oil and season with salt. Grill on a hot grate or grill pan for 2–3 minutes until lightly charred but still with some bite.
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Plate and serve: Salmon on the plate, asparagus alongside, potatoes on the side. A generous spoonful of béarnaise over the salmon or in a small bowl. Lemon wedges to finish.
Serving note
- The béarnaise holds well at room temperature for 20–30 minutes in its blending container. Give it a quick stir before serving.
- If you don’t have a hand blender, a regular blender works on the same principle. A whisk over a double boiler also works, but that’s more effort than a Tuesday calls for.
- Salmon’s at its best when the centre just gives way under light pressure. If it offers real resistance, it’s done. If the centre still feels cold and firm, give it another minute.
- 150 g of butter for three people is generous. Expect a little béarnaise left over, which is never a bad thing.
